Professional installation techniques for decorative cornices and frames

For plasterboard cornices , installation begins with precisely marking the lines on the ceiling and walls. Laser levels, tracing lines, and repeated measurements allow you to define the height, width, and depth of the cornice. Once the design is finalized, the metal guide profiles and uprights are installed, secured with suitable anchors and spaced at the correct distances to avoid flexing.

The structure is built with lighting and systems in mind from the outset: cable ducts, LED profile slots, and holes for spotlights or ventilation vents. Next, the plasterboard panels are cut to size and screwed to the structure, paying particular attention to the edges and connections with the existing ceiling. The corners are protected with metal or PVC corner profiles, essential for achieving clean, impact-resistant edges.

Decorative frames are installed using slightly different methods. The profiles are measured and cut, usually at 45°, using mitre saws with suitable blades or special saws. A clean cut is essential to match the corners without visible gaps. Before gluing, dry tests are performed by placing the frames against the wall to check continuity and alignment.

Gluing is done with specific adhesives for plaster, polyurethane, or mixed substrates, distributed evenly along the entire length of the frames or in carefully selected areas. Once the profile is positioned, any excess glue is removed immediately. The joints between one piece and another are filled with suitable products and then sanded to obtain a continuous line without visible gaps.

In areas where cornices and cornices incorporate indirect lighting , installation is coordinated with electricians and installers. The LED coves must be perfectly straight, without "bellies" or notches, because even small irregularities are highlighted by the light. Before completely closing the structures, it is good practice to perform a test run to correct any errors before smoothing and painting.

The smoothing and finishing phase completes the cycle: plasterboard joints, wall connections, and contact points with frames and ceilings are filled in several passes, sanded, and inspected under low light to eliminate undulations and imperfections. Only when the surface is perfectly even are primer and final paint applied.

A professional installation is recognized by straight lines, clean corners, the absence of premature cracks, and a uniform finish between the technical element and the existing surfaces. The final result shouldn't give the impression of a "glued-on" addition, but rather of an architectural detail conceived in conjunction with the room.